Why can't I get a vacuum on drybagsteak material like a regular vacuum bag?

I'm not sure how good the vacuum needs to be? The corners have a little air and the seal doesn't want to hold.

What should I do?

The answer is "Massage" Grasshopper.

Spend the time to massage the bag down into contact with the meat. This will help drive out the air before vacuum sealing......and make a "sealing" contact with the bag and the meat. Also....make sure no liquid has touched the bag where it is going to make contact with the sealing strip on the vacuum machine. My machine works best with the sealing control set at "4"

Fold under the extra part of the bag after you have vacuum sealed so the weight of the meat helps maintain the seal. Gently put on a rack.....and don't touch it for 14 to 21 days.

Jon

Perhaps the most difficult part of the vaccum sealing is the propensity for the bag material to "clump" up in the snorkle, and block the vaccum process.
I believe Thea is going to present an "accessory" clip to insert in the snorkle to hold the bag open.
What you might try is two toothpicks inserted inside the snorkle on each side. Then slip the bag over the snorkle and move the toothpics close or on the side of the meat.
See if that helps temporariy The basswood toothpicks will remain inside the bag with the meat and presents no problem for contamination. Use clean toothpics of course.
The use of stainless steel clips is being considered, or ??. Thea can answer this better.
RRP has a "raft" of tubing that has success also.
Good luck..enjoy.
"Char-Woody

I agree with Char-Woody as the Sinbo senses the vacuum has been drawn and therefore goes into the sealing mode prematurely unless you grip each side of the bag near the snorkel and keep it spread open until air is out. OTOH I made a "raft-like" item of rigid 1/8" I.D. plastic tubing and then super-glued it together like this:


I just sterilize it in boiling water before inserting it inside the bag close to the snorkel. It keeps the bag open and allows the Sinbo to vacuum the air let alone allows my hands to be free to coax all the air out. When it seals the "raft" stays inside during the aging process.


Works for me, but as I say you can also pinch the material to keep the bag open...I'm just a gadget guy at heart - and trust me Char-Woody is too!!!

The single layer, flexible material of DrybagSteak is just never going to have the ease of a laminated vacuum bag for drawing a vacuum or sealing--especially if you are comparing it to the automated function of a typical household countertop seal-a-meal or other channel bag sealer. However, as the the previous posters have mentioned, you can massage out as much air as possible and find creative ways to keep the DrybagSteak material from blocking the snorkel as you draw out the air.
Remember that small pockets of air at the corners and in the divots where the bones were removed from a ribeye will not cause major issues in your aging. If the vast majority of the surface of the meat is completely well-bonded with the DrybagSteak material, you will only find that the "age" and need for trim will go a few millimeters deeper in the spots with air pockets.
it does take some patience and each person finding the technique that works for them to get the air drawn out and the material pulled in optimal contact with the surface of the meat, but we all know the results justify the fuss!!

I've gone through four bags now but I'm unable to get a good final bag/meat contact. I've taken a look through the forum, watched the Foodwishes.com video several times and tried the straws, 'rafts', massaging, etc. I actually do get a good vacuum when the machine is pulling a vacuum. It looks perfect, and the bag is completely sucked in against the meat. However, when I push down on the seal bar and the snorkel retracts, air immediately gets back into the bag and the seal locks it in. I then have large air pockets in the bag. Without good bag contact against the meat I don't think I should continue the aging process. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any solutions/recommendations?

When you push down on the seal bar.....are you holding it down with pressure until the seal is complete? What temp setting are you using for the seal?

I would like to suggest that perhaps one should make a smaller 45 degree seal on the two outside edges of the bags prior to the final seal. Then cut off those two flaps as they are no longer of any use. The meats are inside at this point. Then insert your tube extention and press up to or over the meat and begin your final vaccum seal. Once the timer count has indicated as instructed lock down your bar and you should have a good tight vaccum. I use a clip made of larger paper clips folded into shape to give me a longer tube extention. They fit inside the extender tube, and when the vacuum is completed they remain with the meat inside the bag. You can boil them later and reuse the clips.
Try that as well.. or use two toothpicks placed inside the outer edges of the extender tube.
If you e.mail me, I can send you some photos..
woodchipper2@mchsi.com
Good luck.

I'm sealing at #4 and have also tried #5. I am putting pressure on the seal bar. The problem seems to occur during the transition when the snorkel retracts. When I get more bags I can try to vary the 45 degree seals as Char-Woody suggests, but I'm not sold on that making a difference

Here's another thought...are you folding the bag back first so that the material to be fused together has not gotten greasy from the meat which would/could hinder the seal. As rapidly as you say the air returns and then gets sealed inside still baffles me a bit...maybe some more morning java will help!